The Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains

After a few days of soaking up the sun and sights in Sydney  it was time to put my walking boots back on and hit the mountains.

About 100km West of Sydney lies the infamous Blue Mountains. 247,000 hectares of wilderness dressed with over a million eucalyptus trees.

Stopping at Kings Tableland Lookout the Jamison valley spread out across the horizon. The most mesmerising part of this view was the piercing chirping of the cicadas below.

Hiking down the mountain

Getting down into the valley was incredible (and hot!) Climbing the 280 steps down to Wentworth falls didn’t sound like it would be as hard work as it was. The cockatoos soaring around us as we climbed down the steep steps cut into the rock were a great distraction. It is no wonder that Charles Wentworth and his fellow explorers were deemed heroes when they first crossed the valley in 1813.

Cooling off in the refreshing waters was a real treat before the hard slog back up the mountain in the midday heat.

Next on the itinerary was walking through the valley. Effortlessly we glided down the valley looking out to the Three Sisters on the Scenic World cable car.

The board walk through the forest was crowed (it was the Saturday after New Year so it was bound to be busy..!) but looking up at the canopy of trees looming above us was awesome.

Cable car

Now for the return journey. At a 52 degree incline  the Scenic Railway (originally part of the Katoomba mining tramway) is the steepest railway in the world. I felt like I was on a fairground ride. Holding on tight to the top of the metal mesh ‘cage’ as we whizzed backwards up the valley. It only took a few minutes but was so much fun.

A great day out, a lovely walk and fun trip into the valley. My only disappointment is that the Blue Mountains weren’t very blue…! 

New York vs. London

Central Park & Hyde Park, subways & tubes,  The Rockefeller Christmas Tree & Winter Wonderland, The Empire State building &... and what’s London’s comparison? The Shard perhaps…?!

For the past two days as I wandered the streets of New York completely awe inspired I couldn’t help but compare it to London. This blog is by no means objective, having lived in London for six years and visited New York for just two days but even in that short (and rather cold!) visit I discovered so many reasons to love The Big Apple as much as The Big Smoke.

Transport

Yellow taxis outside New York's Grand Central Station

For everyone’s complaining Transport for London isn’t too bad, the underground is easy enough and the buses take you where you need to go. I had no idea how I was going to navigate the NYC subway system but luckily the friend I was staying with gave me step by step directions. Having downloaded the NYC subway app to my iPhone (I have the London underground app on there too of course) I counted down the stations on route.

Even travelling into the centre of Manhattan at peak commuter time I was nicely surprised at how calm everything was – a far cry from watching trains roll past unable to squeeze on to one with all the London commuters. The trains and stations seemed much older and more rickety though, surprising as they were built forty years after London’s underground opened.

Morning commute in London at Waterloo Station

In general I was struck by the quietness of New York, from the films and TV shows I had imagined a loud, noisy, congested city with the iconic yellow taxis beeping, traffic jams, basically just a lot of mayhem, but the roads are so much calmer than London's with our black cabs and red buses rushing from A to B.

Taking the bus through Brooklyn at 8:30am however ensured that I didn’t go away with a completely rose tinted view of the NYC Transport system. Here the all too familiar scene of cramming a few too many people into a small space reminded me of my morning commute in London catching the big red bus from Waterloo, hoping to be at the front of the well ordered queue to ensure a seat but more often than not running to jump on just before it pulls away. 

As we meandered through Down Town Brooklyn and the crowds dispersed the bus driver was so friendly, chatting away; eager to give me tips for my sightseeing.I don’t think I ever spoke to the bus driver of the 243 that I took every day to work for the past 2 years.

Cupcakes

Magnolia Bakery in New York

Being a big fan of both cupcakes and of Sex and the City, I couldn’t come to New York without a visit to Magnolia Bakery (Carrie and the girls’ favourite in the show.) The branch on the corner of 49^th and 6^th was a welcome treat after the awesome views from Top of the Rock. The quaint set-up and relaxed atmosphere drew me in as I ordered my red velvet cupcake.

Now don’t get me wrong, it was good but London’s Hummingbird Bakery with its trendy demeanour and delicious choices of cake does make a better red velvet, I think it’s all down to the cream cheese icing...

Park Life

Sunset on London's Clapham Common

I love London’s parks; wandering past the deer in Richmond Park, admiring the views from Primrose Hill, walking though Clapham Common on a crisp Autumnal day, picnicing in Green Park on my birthday, the list goes on…

The only park I had time to visit in New York was Central Park. 

My first glimpse of it was from the Top of the Rockefeller as I saw New York stretched out ahead of me and the very straight rectangular green space etched in to the heart of the city. 

Arial view of New York's Central Park

A very different view to that of Hyde Park, which can be seen beautifully from Galvin at Windows restaurant at the top of The Hilton on Park Lane, with its more fluid shape, leading to other Royal Parks. 

Hyde Park has The Serpentine, Central Park The Lake. Both have the beauty of the nature surrounded by the hustle of the big city. In Hyde Park it’s easy to forget you’re in the middle of the capital city; at its heart not many buildings can be seen and the buzz of the traffic is reduced to a gentle dim. In Central Park with the skyscrapers rising above the trees, which were quickly losing their leaves for winter, there is no escaping the fact you’re in the middle of a huge metropolitan city; but would you want to..?

Christmas

Winter Wonderland in London

Leaving London in November I missed one of my favourite festive activities; Winter Wonderland. Hyde Park is transformed into, quite literally, a winter wonderland for six weeks every year. There’s fairground rides, German market stores, mulled wine, ice skating and my favourite; a mini London Eye giving a great view of the city from the warm little capsules. To me Christmas isn’t Christmas without wandering around Wonderland with a cup of mulled wine on a crisp winter’s evening. 

New York's famous Christmas tree and ice-skating rink

To New Yorkers Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without the 80ft Christmas Tree at the Rockefeller Centre.

I visited the Rockefeller on my first day in New York and was a little disappointed to find the tree not quite ready and the ice rink not quite open. Luckily it was that very night that the lights were being switched on so the next day after a long day of sightseeing I headed back to the centre of town to see for myself the world-famous tree. In order to get the true experience I had a coffee (no mulled wine to be seen…) while I waited for it to get dark and wow am I pleased I did. The 45,000 lights were truly incredible and the whole scene reminded me of so many movies. A truly different scale to Winter Wonderland, but both absolutely wonderful in getting everyone into the festive spirit.

For more info on New York read my Top Picks blog.

Walter’s Boda Tours of Kampala

Walter

The best way to see Kampala is by motorbike, or Boda Boda as they are called in Kampala. I was lucky enough to have a brilliant boda driver when I lived here; Walter.

Walter was always on call to ferry the muzungos from place to place and over the six months I spent living in Kampala while on a VSO  placement he became a good friend.

As well as working as a boda he also established Walter’sBoda Boda Tours; using his enthusiasm, intelligence and knowledge of the country to drive and guide tourists around the city.

Kampala on Walter's boda at night

Returning to Uganda this year it was fantastic to see how his business has taken off! Walter now has ten boda guys who work for him and they run a range of tours around the city and beyond to Jinja, Entebbe  or even as far as the equator

I’ve been lucky enough to take a few tours with Walter so far. The city tour is my favourite and takes in the sights such as the Gadaffi Mosque, built in 2006 it’s the second largest mosque in Africa. The views from the top are breathtaking, overlooking the whole city and all the hills with Lake Victoria as the backdrop.

View from the Gaddafi Mosque

From the mosque you can see most of the landmarks the tour takes you to such as the Kings Palace, churches and the Baha’i Temple (although as I lived a few minutes’ walk from this we omitted it from my tour..)

Driving to the Gaddafi Mosque

The tours were a great thing to do when friends came to visit – it make sightseeing much easier and Walter as a guide always puts a smile on everyone’s face.

The King's Palace

Rolex for breakfast

Seeing how fantastically his business has taken off over the past year I was keen to do another tour on my return this time. He runs a great tour of the lake..

Unfortunately due to other commitments on my part I wasn’t able to do the full tour but Walter still made sure I saw as much as possible in the limited time.

We had breakfast at his favourite rolex stand. Rolex is a traditional Uganda/Kampala food of eggs with tomato wrapped in a chapatti – I can’t believe I hadn’t had one until now. It was delicious!

Walter at Lake Victoria 

After helping me with a few errands we drove out to the lake past Munyonyo. It was wonderful to see everyone going about their day to day lives, cleaning vehicles, running businesses and fishing for Nile perch and tilapia.

What a feast we had of a huge fresh tilapia barbecued and served with a large helping of chips and salad.

Finishing lunch just as a big storm hit the lake we raced back to town avoiding as much of the rain as possible and getting me back in plenty of time for my flight home.

Lunch of freshly caught tilapia

Next time I visit I’ll make sure I take the full Lake Tour as I would have loved to sail the boat over to the island and explore further.

For anyone heading to Uganda I’d recommend a day or two in Kampala and give Walter a call on +256791880106 to arrange your tour or visit his website.

Transport in Bagan: Bikes, Taxis, Boats & Horses

A short plane journey from Yangon lays Bagan. Described as Burmese First Empire there are over 3,300 temples and pagodas here.

Our first choice of transport for sightseeing was push bikes.  Easily hired from most guest houses we lowered the seats (even in Asia our group of mostly 5ft 1 seemed short..!) and set off with our baskets full of water, sun cream and cameras.

With little traffic around we bezzed down the hills but in the midst of the ‘Dry Zone’ at over 35 degrees the uphill was a struggle... Veering off onto the dirt tracks on our ‘Temple Safari’ it felt as though we could be in Africa with acacia trees growing out of the dusty roads with dry heat seeping from them.

Cycling along the sand caused much amusement – not only to the locals watching the white girls becoming pinker and redder the hotter we got. Also for us as the back wheels skidded away. Somehow we all managed to stay upright, even after Lizz’s bike got a puncture.

For the full day of sightseeing we opted for an air-conditioned taxi. The six seated Toyota made for a more comfortable journey. Tourists have only recently been welcomed into the country after the tourism boycott was officially dropped by the NLD (National League for Democracy) in 2010. Unlike other wonders such as Angkor Wat there isn’t as much hassle from vendors or beggars at the main attractions here. The smaller temples usually have a gate keeper to unlock them. We didn’t quite work out if tipping was appropriate/accepted. Some gate keepers would accept, others ask, others refuse but the ones we felt most comfortable with were the ones who asked us to put our 1-500 Kyat (10-50p) in the donations boxes for restoration work.

This is why we were so shocked at one temple when a young boy dressed in a monks robe directly asked us for money as a “present” for him. On reflection we aren't sure if he was a monk as he also helped us down the narrow staircase by holding our hands (against our wishes.) Buddhist Monks are allowed no contact with women, not even to brush passed them in the street, so perhaps he wasn't a monk after all...

The journey to this and the nearby temples was idyllic though. We hired a boat from Nyaung U Jetty for a three hour cruise along the Ayeyarwady River. The breeze on the shaded boat was a welcome retreat from the scorching sun.

Another popular method of transport amongst travellers is the horse and cart. We made the wise decision to leave this until the heat had relented in the evening. It was so much fun clip-clopping through the streets at night with the flashing lights of the cart gleaming in the night sky. I’m glad it was only a half hour journey though as squeezing into the cart was a little uncomfortable.

The only form of transport we were unable to use was the renowned hot air balloon. Unfortunately the rides are only available between October to March but I’m sure it would have been a stunning way to appreciate the vastness of the ancient city. Ah well, next time...

Field trip diary: India by motorbike

Royal Enfields sweeping through the Indian roads. © Iain Crockart

I love my job. It allows me to take supporters on awesome adventures while raising vital funds for the world's children.

Me in India © Iain Crockart

In 2009, I was lucky enough to visit southern India on the back of a Royal Enfield bullet. What an incredible feeling, sweeping up mountain roads, through tea plantations and tiger reserves, eyes peeled to catch a glimpse of India’s wildlife.

Royal Enfields © Iain Crockart

The whole trip was memorable, but one particular day stuck with me. 

We set out at sunrise for a long day's ride. As we swept down the mountain the mist cleared and I could feel the sun beating down and smell jasmine in the air as we drove.

Southern India © Iain Crockart

We stopped for some chai (a refreshing, sweet tea) and met UNICEF health assistant, Ms Indrani. She was distributing polio drops to children in the area.

Ms Indrani shows us her map 

Back in 2009, India was one of four counties that hadn’t eradicated polio and its devastating effects. UNICEF works with India's government on a large-scale immunisation programme to wipe out polio and other childhood diseases.

Talking to Ms Indrani was utterly inspiring, and to see UNICEF’s work in action was just incredible.


Now, in 2012, we've had the news that India has reached a major milestone in the history of polio eradication – 12 months without a single new case! 

Traffic in India

Our ride continued through mountains and busy towns, where we carefully negotiated traffic. I can still taste the lunch we enjoyed from a basic but delicious local restaurant. We watched women below washing their beautiful saris in a vast river before laying them on the rocks to dry, and boys playing games in the water, laughing and splashing, as we tucked into a delicious south Indian curry.

Discovering India © Iain Crockart

Kampala vs. London

With just over a week to go until the end of my VSO placement I have been reflecting upon my time here and all the things I’ll miss when I leave Uganda and all the things I’m looking forward to at home.

I am so excited to meet my new baby niece, Ella. Emily & Ian have sent me lots of photos and she is gorgeous; I can’t wait to give her a big cuddle from her Aunty Al. Seeing my family and lovely friends is also at the top of my ‘things I’m looking forward to’ list.

Mama FM colleagues


However at the top of my ‘things I’m going to miss’ list is all my lovely friends, colleagues and neighbours here. It’s going to be really hard to say goodbye to so many inspiring people. I will miss everyone a lot!

Food and drinks. Ah how I miss Walkers Salt & Vinegar crisps (although I write this having just devoured a pack – thanks for the parcel Fran!!) As for eating out I’m spoilt for choice of restaurants in Kampala but unfortunately no Vietnamese, my favourite. I think I’ll be having lots of lunches in Pho when I get back! I’m also looking forward to turning on the tap and getting a glass of water. Here I boil and filter my water and even though I’m getting used to the chalky taste it is getting a bit tedious

Milk. Fresh, cold milk. I buy the longlife milk here but it expires pretty quickly once it’s opened. I do have a fridge but given all the power cuts it’s not very reliable! I can only have white coffee in the mornings at work because by the afternoon the milk has gone off. In fact to have coffee at all Anna and I have to bring in our own coffee, milk, sugar, mugs and even our own kettle! I’m so looking forward to rocking up to the office and finding a pot of coffee simmering away, milk in the fridge, sugar in the jar and even lots of herbal teas for detox days.



Anna & I at work



Talking about the office this is a sad fact to admit but I am looking forward to getting back to the world of Microsoft Outlook. Looking in someone’s calendar, arranging a meeting and knowing they will turn up and on time seems like such a luxury. And emails  – how I miss emails! To communicate in the office here a memo is written, stamped (this is a very important step) and then physically passed round the office. It is then pinned to the notice board with ‘NEW’ scrawled across it in big red letters. There are scores of ‘NEW’ memos on that board!  UMWA only has one email address for the whole organisation. For those of us who have to/want to communicate via email we use our personal account which doesn’t seem very professional- especially when communicating with donors... Other luxuries such as a phone and printer are missing here. It will actually feel like a treat to pick up my phone, with my direct line and make a call from my desk without having to borrow the one organisation phone and worry about running out of air time half way through the call.

I am looking forward to not being as reliant upon my laptop. I use it all day for work as there are not enough computers. Having said that it is great in meetings to take notes and quickly look something up or just to carry on working while waiting for people to turn up. My laptop is my main method of communication with everyone at home (what did we do before the days of Face Book and Skype....?) It is also my means of watching TV. Most of us Muzungus have brought external hard drives full of films and TV series (Thanks Kevin!) that we swap. It’s great to be able to watch a film or an episode of Mad Men on a night in but I am looking forward to turning on the TV. I miss watching the news in the morning as I’m getting ready for work.

"Welcome Home Alyrene-a"

I will very much miss my journey to/from work. Every morning to be greeted with big smiles from Betty and the children is a great start to the day. And there’s nothing better than after a bad day (or a good day for that matter) to be greeted by the gorgeous children running up the road, fighting over who will be the first to get a cuddle from Alyrene-a. There is a lovely culture to welcome everyone back at the end of the day so passing the small houses on the way home and hearing ‘welcome back’ is a far cry from rushing through the crowds anonymously in London. Another great saying they use all the time here is ‘well done’. ‘well done’ for getting up ‘well done’ for getting to work, ‘well done’ for everything!

My working hours here are very relaxed. Anna and I aim to leave the house at about 9am (I am usually late....!) But regardless of how early or late we are we are still always the first in our little office. It’s such a luxury to be able to come home, shower, change, chill out and still meet friends later in town for dinner or drinks. I think it will take me a while to get used to rushing out straight from work, trekking across London and still always arriving at the pub and greeting my mates with “I’m sorry I’m late... again.” So even though ‘African Time’ can get frustrating, I’m a big fan of it!

Walter's Boda

My next point is a bit contradictory. I am really looking forward to getting back to a decent public transport system. Being able to hop on a tube or bus or just walk across town without any pre-planning. Here my schedule is often determined by Walter and on the rare occasions he’s not working we are stuck in Kisaasi. But I will miss being on a bike every day. I love it! And although I do sometimes have a snooze on the way home the journey back from a night out is always as much fun as the night it’s self. One of the first things I was taught in Luganda was ‘mpola mpola’ which means 'slowly slowly' and we were told to say this to all boda drivers but I much prefer ‘speedy speedy.’

En route to Queen Elizabeth National Park



Because of the lack of reliable public transport I have had some great road trips at weekends. It’s easier to hire a minibus than attempt to get around on the matatus. Hiring your own transport has the added bonus of being able to stop en-route. One of the most beautiful viewpoints was heading from Queen Elizabeth National Park to Lake Bunyonyi at Easter, looking out over the vast African savannah with the sun beating down – just gorgeous.



Cassia Lodge



I’ll miss weekends in Kampala too. So long as the sun is shining we spend our weekends chilling at the pool. Most of the hotels charge a small fee for use of the pool/gym (some of them charge a large fee but we avoid those!) One of the very best is Cassia Lodge. It’s about a 40min boda ride away but the views across Lake Victoria are always worth it. Not sure sunbathing on Clapham Common will quite match it, but hey I’m looking forward to that too...

One thing Clapham does have that Kampala lacks is street lights. I miss light! It will be so nice to go back to long summer evenings rather than it getting dark by 7pm every day.



Another thing London has over Kampala is hundreds of shops to choose from but I’m really going to miss shopping sprees here. Two great girls have set up a fab initiative called Fashion Corps. They trawl through the markets for all the hidden gems and host parties once a month selling the goodies. I love leaving Nina and Brooke to do my shopping for me, I just hope I’ve got enough luggage space to bring it all back....

So just six months away. So many amazing memories and so much I’ll miss but also so much to look forward to.

First impressions of Kampala

So I’ve been in Uganda a month now. In one way it feels like only yesterday saying all my goodbyes (and recovering from all the hangovers..) and in another it feels like I have been here forever. .  I thought it was about time to jot down some of my first impressions of Kampala.  I also wanted to thank everyone who sponsored me – I reached my target for VSO to continue supporting volunteers to fight poverty – thank you!!

The People:

In just a month I have met so many wonderful people both fellow Muzungus (the term for a ‘white person which you hear about 50 times a day) and locals.

Firstly I met the VSO crew. We spent a week in Kabalagala for our In Country Training. There were volunteers from far and wide; Canada, Scotland, Kenya, Ireland & Holland so we learnt about each other’s cultures as well as the Uganda culture. As everyone went their separate ways to the likes of Kabulasoke, Gulu and Lira there were just a few of us left in Kampala. Yvonne, a lovely Irish girl living the same side of town as me and Yan who we’ve already said goodbye too as he was just on a one month placement (although we’re sure he’ll be back some time soon.) Yvonne was the first person I met in Uganda, at the airport waiting for our luggage and now we’re spending Christmas together in Jinja – I can’t wait!

Then I moved to Kisaasi and met Anne Karie, Anna for short.  Anna is my lovely Norwegian next door neighbour and also works at Uganda Media Women’s Association (UMWA.) I’m not sure what I would have done without Anna, she has been so kind; shown me round and introduced me to all the people she has met over her past couple of months here. She is also a breath of fresh-air when things get frustrating at work – I’m not sure how many times we’ve turned to each other and said “it doesn’t happen like this at home.”

Walter needs a mention here too, our boda-boda (motorbike taxi) driver. Everyone advises you to find a good boda driver but before I got here I wondered how to do that. Luckily Anna introduced me to Walter. Walter has about 50 Muzungu clients and everyone loves Walter! He is such sweet guy and makes sure he looks after his Muzungus. He’s really interesting to chat to and always puts a smile on our face. He’s currently writing a book, ‘Stories from the back of a boda’ (let’s hope he doesn’t spill too much gossip...)

Then there’s Betty who lives in a tiny house down the road. Betty is so friendly and always wants to chat. Walking home from work to be greeted with a big, toothless, smile “welcome back Alyrene-a” (she’s got the best pronunciation of Alyrene so far – seems it’s a pretty touch name to say out here..) Her first husband has ‘gone away’ and she now lives with the father of her youngest child, Peace. Peace is far from peaceful and has a great mischievous twinkle in her eye. As a family they don’t have much and can barely afford school fees but Betty always offers tea, food or anything she can find as a gift. She sometimes sells avocados from the tree in her yard so I make sure I buy them from her to at least give something back for her kindness. 

There’s so many other lovely people I’ve met – too many to mention here but I’m really looking forward to getting to know everyone better and sharing this experience with such great people.

The Food

Always an important subject but unfortunately Ugandan cuisine is not much to write home about! During the VSO training we had traditional Ugandan food most days for lunch and it consisted of carbs, carbs and more carbs... A standard meal would be posho (maize flour dough) matoke (steamed green banana) rice,  cassava and potatoes served with beans and a little fish or meat. Basically lots of carbs and not much flavour!

At first I was pleased to find that I would get lunch provided at work. On the minimal VSO allowance any cost saving is much appreciated. Unfortunately in just a few weeks I am already sick of posho and beans (see lunch pic.) I’ve bought a big jar of chilli sauce but even that doesn’t seem to help.

Luckily Kampala has lots of restaurants with most cuisines you could wish for; Ethiopian, Chinese, Indian, Thai, Italian, etc, etc (but unfortunately no Vietnamese – gutted!) So far I’ve tucked into some great dishes. The ‘East African mixed grill’ (see pic) and steaks are the best so far. Unfortunately I shouldn’t get too used to the lovely food as the VSO allowance doesn’t stretch to eating in all those lovely places. We did find a great cheap place though; very local and you have to be sure to request a table as far away from the toilets as possible but they do 2 sticks of BBQ pork served with avocado, cassava, salad and chilli for just 5,000 shillings and it’s absolutely lovely. I think I need to go back there again soon....

The Drink

Of course there had to be a drinking section... It’s mainly beer and Club is my brand of choice, it’s only served in big bottles – no complaints there! Whenever you order a beer the bar man/waitress asks if you would like it warm or iced, I’m not sure why warm beer would be appealing in this weather but the cold beer goes down very well!

Unfortunately there are no bars near where I live but a call to the trusty Walter and there are lots of places to choose from in town. (I say ‘in town’ to refer to anywhere past the Northern by-pass as my awful sense of direction is not helped by living in a city full of hills!)

Luckily Captain Morgan is also widely available here too for when we’ve had too much beer!

The Work

Uganda Media Women’s Association (UMWA) has been running for 27 years, in fact it was set up in the same summer I was born. They run community outreach programmes, a newspaper and a radio station. Mama FM was the first women owned and run radio station in Africa and uses its programmes to promote gender equality. My main role is fundraising for the radio and to be honest it looks like I have a tough job ahead of me – but hey I wanted a challenge!!

The working culture is very different here in Uganda – as is the time keeping (but I actually quite like African time because with African time you can never be late!) It is however  a little frustrating when you book a meeting at 10am and it doesn’t  happen till 5pm!

It was the UMWA Christmas party last week and although not the best Christmas party I’ve ever been to, the staff loved it. Nearly all of the 45 staff members are volunteers and often have to use their own money to pay for work phone calls or for transport to the field. The Christmas party was a way for the organisation to show how much they appreciated everyone’s commitment. There was a gift for everyone and never have I seen anyone so excited to open a parcel of bed sheets (although to be fair it was quite a handy gift – even though mine are bright pink.) There were certificates for the best presenter, technician, editor, etc and again people were so proud to receive this recognition.

Arriving here in November was really good timing because I’ve had chance to get to grips with work and life in Kampala. I’ve been able to input into (and write) the 2011 work plan and now have some time to reflect over the Christmas break.  I’ve got a lot of work ahead of me in the New Year but I’m ready for the challenge. It’s also a really interesting time to be working in Kampala and especially in the media industry with the elections coming up.

The Place

When I found out my placement was in Uganda  and I’d be living in Kampala I was really excited. I’d heard Kampala was a really safe and reasonably developed city. I must admit I got a bit of a shock driving to my new home! I’m living in an area called Kisaasi which is about 8km North of Kampala but it may as well be 80km out of town.  The shock quickly wore off and now I feel I have the best of both worlds – I get to live in what feels like a rural Ugandan village but can hop on a boda and be in ‘civilisation’ in 20mins.

I only have a 5min walk to work which is great and can even pop home for lunch if the posho and beans get too much.

It’s a really lovely and reasonably safe area. The neighbours are all very friendly and even though it’s not exactly a Waitrose I can buy all the essentials from the local shops. There are also a few little stalls at the end of people’s gardens selling fresh fruit and vegetables and at a fraction of the price they sell for in the supermarkets in town.

The only bad thing about Kisaasi is the dust. Because none of the roads are tarmaced it gets so dusty.  It’s actually quite nice when it rains just to get rid of the dust for a few hours – I’m not sure I’ll be saying that in full monsoon season though as I’m guessing the track to my house may turn into a bit of a river!

The Transport

Never again will I complain about the British transport system! There are three transport options in Kampala:

Option One: Special hire, which is a private taxi and not affordable on the VSO allowance.

Option Two: Bodaboda, the motorbike taxi which I think is the best option, but maybe that’s because after spending time on a bike in India any road system seems to make sense. It does seem strange being on a bike without full on motor-cross gear but the must have accessory in Kampala is a helmet. Back home everyone carries a nice handbag on their arm; here all the Muzungus walk around with our helmets.  Walter – our lovely Boda driver is very proud of his Bajaj Boxer but dreams of one day upgrading to a BMW.

Option Three: Matatu; a shared minibus taxi and the cheapest way to get around but I hate those things! Not because of all the reports of accidents or stranding passengers in the middle of nowhere but because I have no idea where to get on or off. As you all know my sense of direction leaves a lot to be desired and attempting to figure out my way round the taxi parks is a bit of a challenge (check out the pic to see what I mean.)

Well I think that’s it for now – a longer report than I meant to write but I hope you found it interesting. Thank you again to everyone who has supported me. And lots of Christmas love and wishes to you all. xxx