Sydney: Top Picks

New Year Fireworks

Watching the world famous fireworks light up the sky over Sydney was the best way to begin an adventurous 2013.

Making the most of the sunshine and holiday vibe I loved exploring the city. My favourite sights in were:

Bondi to Bronte Cliff Top Walk

Bondi Cliff Top Trail

With the clear blue ocean ahead we headed South round the cliffs as the sweltering sunshine beat down. A few minutes into the walk we spotted dolphins gracefully jumping out of the water to say hello on the last day of the year. This was even more amazing having swum with the beautiful creatures a few days earlier in New Zealand! 

There were plenty of beaches to choose from along the way and we settled on Bronte to soak up the sunshine and have an ice-cream while the surfers caught the last waves of the year.

Shelly Beach

Ferry to Manly

Regular ferries depart from Circular Quay to Manly Beach. We set sail with the Opera House and Harbour Bridge glistening in the sunshine.

Manly on New Year’s Day was, as expected, really busy so we wandered through the promenade and along the shore to the slightly quieter Shelly Beach. A great little cove to soak up some rays and cool off in the calmer waters.

Sunset from the Manly Ferry

The very best part of the day was the ferry back. We timed it so we would be sailing at sunset (something I would definitely recommend.) The light over the water was incredible and I had to pinch myself at the pink sky erupting over the iconic sights of, what is fast becoming, one of my favourite cities.

Pottering around Surrey Hills

After browsing the vintage shops, Surrey Hills is a great place to relax with a glass of wine. We’d been recommended The Winery and with the funky decor and big courtyard garden I can see why it is a favourite with Sydney-siders.

Feeling peckish we popped into Dimitri’s Pizzeria on Crown Street. Greeted with a smile and the tantalising scents of fresh cooking we tucked into possibly one of the best pizzas I’ve ever tasted.

Walking over Sydney Harbour Bridge

View from Sydney Harbour Bridge

A must do on a clear day is taking the train to Milsons Point and walking over the 1,149 meter bridge that links North Sydney with the CBD.

The views are slightly interrupted by the steel slats spanning the entire length of the bridge but I soon got used to that and thoroughly enjoyed the stroll to the harbour.

View from Opera Bar

A drink at Opera Bar

A visit to Sydney wouldn’t be complete without enjoying a glass of wine on a balmy evening at Opera Bar. 

The views were extraordinary with the skyscrapers to one side, the magnificent steel bridge ahead and the billowing sales of the Opera House behind.

Drinks weren’t as extortionate as I’d imagined (although everything in Sydney is pretty pricey!) so we whiled away the evening catching up with friends with the stunning backdrop.

Darling Harbour

Not favoured by my guide book but a must in my opinion. Making the most of Happy Hour we managed to get a reasonable priced dinner at one of the many bars overlooking Cockle Bay.

Darling Harbour

The early evening sun was magical as the jelly fish floated by and the birds sang their evening songs.

Lots of great things to do in a fabulous city and I also enjoyed getting out of town for a day, hiking in the Blue Mountains but that’s for another blog…

Hidden Gems: New Zealand - South Island

Campervan

I’ve spent the past two weeks travelling through the South Island of New Zealand in a campervan with two dear friends; Kat and Lou. Lots of lakes, mountains, adventures, driving and lots of fun!

Discovering some of the beautiful places not given enough credit in the guide books was especially rewarding. My favourite hidden gems are:

Lake Mapourika

Ottos Corner

A three minute walk from Mac Donalds Creek doc campsite leads to a beautiful beach by Lake Mapourika. Swimming in the icy water was refreshing to say the least!

The Information Centre said most people visiting Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers overlook a visit to this lake which is such a shame as it is as stunning as it is freezing!

Cardrona

Cardrona Hotel

Marked on the map as ‘Historical Hotel 1868’ this tiny town is definitely worth a visit even when the ski fields are covered with spring flowers instead of snow. 

We called in taking the scenic route from Wanaka to Queenstown.

The few buildings that make up the town; the hotel, shop and post office were low, ancient by New Zealand’s standards and picture perfect.

The single story hotel had a few rooms and a big garden which felt quintessentially British as we sipped our coffee and tucked into the delicious homemade banana cake.

Popping into the local shop we chatted to one of the town’s sixty residents. The retired school teacher now writes and illustrates children’s books. Kat, a dedicated primary school teacher, couldn't resist buying a signed copy for her class.

Lake Wakatipu

Carlin Creek

Driving out of Queenstown towards Milford Sounds the Wakatipu Lake glistens on the edge of the road. Stopping for lunch at one of the many picnic sites we followed the ‘beach’ sign and took the steep path to the water’s edge. The walk was beautiful but I’d not recommend doing it in flip flops (or jandals at they are called here)!

The clear blue water lapped along the shore feeling more like the sea than a lake. Even though I was tempted, I decided not to swim in this lake.

Lake Swimming

Lake Tekapo

Lakes dominate New Zealand’s South Island and during our campervan adventures they proved good places to take in the scenery and freshen up with a swim.

Lake Mapourika

Our first lake swim was at a secluded picnic area just outside Franz Josef. Parked up early for a relaxing evening before our Fox Glacier ice walk we pulled into the doc campsite at McDonald’s Creek. Just a two minute walk from the site was Ottos Corner with a beach leading to Lake Mapourika.

Lake Mapourika

The water was cold but wonderfully refreshing in the early evening sun. Even with a nearly-full campsite only one other person ventured to the swimming area – maybe because he had heard the shrieks as we plunged into the icy water.

Lake Tekapo

Swimming spot on Lake Tekapo

The bright turquoise blue of Lake Tekapo contrasting with the white peaks of the Southern Alps was so beautiful it was almost unreal. 

The scorching December sun glistened on the water twinkling like the incredible night sky (Tekapo is one of the best places in the world for star gazing.)

Walking past the tiny church and small alpine forest we came to a sandy beach – the perfect place for a swim. 

Being much shallower here the water wasn’t as bitterly cold as the other lakes, although it was still pretty chilly! Our feet sinking quickly into the soft sand it wasn’t quite deep enough for a proper swim but a fantastic place to cool down and chill out before another long drive.

View of Lake Wanaka from Mount Iron

Lake Wanaka

I think Wanaka is my favourite of the lakes we visited with the clear blue water surrounded by lush green fields, vineyards and snow-capped mountains. 

Hiking to the top of Mount Iron in the mid-day sunshine was hot but the lake views were well worth it.

Time to cool down with a swim… A group of teenagers were playing in the crystal water; diving off the floating platform, showing off and having lots of fun. It looked great so we ran into the lake, naively unprepared for how cold it would be. A very quick dip and back to sunbathing on the beach. 

Even though they were icy cold I loved having a dip in the lakes as we travelled through the South Island, and all for free.

Swimming with dolphins

Dusky dolphin

I’ve always wanted to swim with dolphins and with its abundance of sea-life Kaikoura seemed like the best place.

Unsure of our plans we weren’t able to book too far in advance but Dolphin Encounter operate a great waiting-list system so we managed to get the date and time we wanted.

When our booking was confirmed it was a crystal clear summer day and we were so excited about our swim with wild dolphins.

Kit

Waking up on the day of the swim to sheets of rain and gusts of wind our excitement wavered.  Assured that even with the moderate weather warning we would still be able to swim we made our way to the Encounters HQ.

A huge array of wetsuits, flippers, snorkels and even prescription goggles were available and the team showed great care to make sure everyone was kitted out comfortably.

A short safety video and it was time to go…

The rain hadn’t subsided as we reached the port and the dark sky loomed over the choppy water of the mighty pacific ocean. The waves poured into the boat as we set sail in search of the dolphins. The waves were too much for some, with people  turning white from sea-sickness (luckily there were lots of buckets on board..!)

Even in these conditions catching our first glimpse of the dolphins was incredible as they jumped gracefully in and out of the water.

As the boat came to a halt we sat on the edge of the deck with the ferocious waves ready to pull us out to sea – I think my knuckles tuned white holding on to the rail so tight. 

Dusky dolphins

I didn’t even notice the ice cold water penetrating through my wetsuit as the waves engulfed us.  The buoyant wetsuits kept us afloat as we put our heads under, eager to see the dolphins around us.

We had three opportunities to swim. On the second swim I had seen a small dolphin right beneath me and decided I’d end on a high and sit the third swim out. But when our wonderful guide, Tracy, pointed to the huge pod of dolphins right next to the boat I couldn’t resist fighting through the waves one more time to get another glimpse of the beautiful creatures.

What a magical experience! I’m not sure how many there were but it felt like hundreds of dolphins playing and swimming around us as we floated just inches above them.

Dolphin Encounter boat

Advised to make noise to encourage their playfulness we sang songs through our snorkels. It seemed to work and the more vocal and excited we became more dolphins came out to play and show off their acrobatic skills.

I mentioned to Tracy later that my goggles had become a little loose, she smiled and said “that’s because you were smiling so much under the water.”

Floating back to the boat the strong waves gave the team a helping hand as they heaved everyone back on board. Time to warm up with a hot shower (when I say I shower, I mean hosepipe..!)

Seals and marine life

The skipper then sailed us to calmer waters where we could relax and get changed overlooking a seal colony. The rain finally stopped as we sailed back to land and I was so excited to see albatross with their incredible wing spans skimming the water around us.

I feel very privileged to have entered into the dusky dolphin’s world. It was a completely different perspective than just watching from afar and I’d love to do it again – although maybe in slightly calmer waters next time…

A day on Milford Sounds

Milford Sounds

Waking up early on a crisp morning in New Zealand we set out in our little campervan for Milford Sounds.

Mirror Lake

The drive was beautiful, firstly stopping at Mirror Lakes which, as the guide book had promised, has a perfect reflection of the magnificent mountains behind. The quirky sign made me smile with the reflection spelling out the name of the lake.

Further south we passed fields of lupins with their purple and pinks creating an oil painting effect against the landscape and their  sweet smell filling the car with the scent of spring.

We’d rearranged our plans to reach Milford sooner because we were warned of heavy rainfall which may close the road leading in and out of the tiny town.  As we drove past the incredible glacial mountains and through the avalanche zone we quickly realised why it would be unsafe to drive in bad weather.

Luckily we were graced with sunshine and as we drove through the Homer Tunnel, carved through the mountain, the chill in the air dispersed like the wispy clouds.

Driving to Milford through the clouds

Pre-booked onto the 11:10 Mitre Peak cruise we eagerly strode to the front of the queue to get a good seat on top-deck.

Tour boat on Milford Sounds

Milford Sounds is sighted at the most impressive in Fiordland. The deep blue water contrasting with the looming cliffs above was an awesome sight. We passed incredible fresh waterfalls; one at 162 meters is much higher than Niagara Falls (but not as wide of course!) 

There was an icy chill in the air as the boat meandered through the Sounds, passing the fishing areas where crayfish is caught and within 48 hours on sale in China.

Sailing further towards the Tasman Sea we turned at St Annes Point. Heading back through the sheer cliffs, the 75 birth boat felt like a tiny speck.

Seal colony

We passed a seal colony, watching the young male seals basking in the sunshine was a perfect end to the journey.  

With some energy left as we drove back we put on our walking boots and hiked to Key Summit. A beautiful three hour walk through a mixture of vegetation including the native New Zealand forest, alpine tracks and a nature walk at the top explaining the history of the land.

The breath-taking views of the Hollyford, Greenstone and Eglington Valleys in the late afternoon sun was my favourite part of the day.

Key summit trek

It is a long way to go for a two hour cruise but the views and stops en-route made it worthwhile. If I were to go again I think I’d do one of the overnight cruises and if my budget allowed I’d take a helicopter flight too... 

Walking on ice

Fox Glacier

We woke to a beautifully clear blue sky and warm sunshine. Packing up the campervan quickly we hit the road for our ice walking tour with Fox Glacier Guiding.

Getting kitted out

Fox Glacier spans 13km in the West of the South Island of New Zealand. Booked onto the half day guided tour we approached with different levels of excitement and trepidation.

Time for a delicious, filling breakfast in the Hobnail café before we were fitted for our equipment.I was the only one in the group who had my own walking boots but there were all sizes available for everyone else to borrow. Socks, bags and waterproofs were also lent before we set out on the short drive to the glacier.

There was a sudden dip in the road as we moved over to the pacific plate – the shift was distinctly noticeable, like dipping down on a rollercoster.

Eager to get onto the ice we chose the ‘English Charm’ of guide, Joe, as the group split in to two to traverse the route separately. 

Following our guide on the ice

Trekking past the icy streams Joe explained that the milky appearance is created by the rocks rubbing together forming a grey dust in the fresh water.

The surrounding vegetation was beautiful with a big pool reflecting bright blues and greens and waterfalls trickling down into the steam beneath.

The looming cliffs towered above as us as we navigated our way to the glacier terminus. Now to secure our crampons and it was time to walk on the ice.

The guides spend around  four hours every morning cutting paths and steps into the ice. Until recently the tours only walked on the cut paths but now the route includes walking on the untouched ice which was surprisingly stable and easy enough to walk on. Having said that every guide still carries a pick axe to hack at any areas that needing re-paving to help all levels of trekkers.

Colourful pools

The sunshine beamed down on us making the ice glisten even more brightly blue and white than it seemed from the base.

Meandering through the paths and ridges we learned about the history of the glacier and how it had grown and shrunk and how it and the Franz Josef Glaciers move ten times faster than any other valley glaciers in the world.

Ooops I wasn't meant to step in there

We had the chance to get close to the crevices. Being a little too excited I didn’t hear Joe shout “don’t go all the way in” as I trudged down the steps and stepped straight into the icy water gathered at the bottom.  It was still beautiful though and wearing my trusty boots that took me all the way up Kilimanjaro I didn’t even get soggy feet!

When we booked the half day tour I wondered if just one hour on the ice would be enough, it turns out that we spent a little longer than that which was plenty of time and at $115 within our budget.

The previous day we’d done a free walk up to Franz Josef glacier, 35kms north of Fox. It was beautiful but nothing compared to actually walking on the ice and being so close to the magnificent beauty. I’d recommend anyone visiting this part of New Zealand to take a trip on Fox Glacier. 

My next challenge...

Trekking in Namibia

Last year I trekked through the Namib Desert, this year I climbed the highest free standing mountain in the world, what could be my challenge for 2013...?

I’m going to live in a jungle for three months with no wifi, no showers, no toilets, no drinking, no salt & vinegar crisps, the list goes on and on...I’ve been accepted as a Project Manager for a Raleigh International expedition in Borneo.

Having worked in the international development sector for over five years I am incredibly picky about which charities I will support. I chose Raleigh as I believe they make a lasting difference in the countries they work in. They work with local partners on sustainable projects such as securing clean water supplies for villages that had none or building kindergartens and providing teacher training so children have an access to early education. I don’t know the specific project I’ll be working on yet but I’m really looking forward to getting out to ‘the field’ and implementing some of the live saving and changing projects I’ve fundraised for over the years.

Raleigh volunteers in Borneo

Raleigh works with volunteers aged 17 to 24 to develop key life skills and confidence while making a difference to the world. Some of the volunteers will be from Borneo and some from disadvantaged backgrounds in the UK who are on a bursary programme, others will be taking a gap year before or after university. Supporting the development of the young people taking part in the project will be my main responsibility in Borneo.

The main challenge I face before I leave is fundraising. Even in a management position I have to raise £1,950 to take part in the expedition. This is in addition to paying for my own flights, vaccines, equipment, first aid training and all of the other costs associated with moving to Borneo for three months.

Cake bake!

I have been overwhelmed at people’s generosity, kindness and support. Donations to my online fundraising page have come from far and wide including very generous donations from my cousins in Canada who I haven’t seen in 20 years (has it really been that long...?!) Thank you to everyone who has donated. I’ve fundraised for VSO and UNICEF recently so I’m really touched my wonderful friends, family and colleagues are still willing to put their hands in their pocket and donate to yet another good cause.

Cake bakes are one of my favourite fundraising mechanisms and with 110 free cupcakes from Hummingbird Bakery and baking support from some of my lovely colleagues I raised £169 selling delicious goodies in the office.

More office fundraising and a jumble sale last week has raised over £200 with a few IOUs still to come.

Auction flyer

As well as the generosity of friends I have also been really grateful for the support of a couple of caring businesses. Handpicked Hotels have donated a nights bed and breakfast with an evening meal and wine for two at one of their beautiful country hotels. The Knightsbridge branch of Venture Photography  has donated a family photography shoot with £400 to spend on the images. I’m auctioning these fantastic prizes to help me reach my target. There’s still time to bid – all you need to do is email me (alyrenerosser@hotmail.com) with your bid by 7pm on 16^th November. (If you are outbid before then I’ll email you straight away to let you know.)

If anyone would like to make a donation directly then please visit my fundraising page

Thank you so much to everyone who has supported me in my next challenge.

Walter’s Boda Tours of Kampala

Walter

The best way to see Kampala is by motorbike, or Boda Boda as they are called in Kampala. I was lucky enough to have a brilliant boda driver when I lived here; Walter.

Walter was always on call to ferry the muzungos from place to place and over the six months I spent living in Kampala while on a VSO  placement he became a good friend.

As well as working as a boda he also established Walter’sBoda Boda Tours; using his enthusiasm, intelligence and knowledge of the country to drive and guide tourists around the city.

Kampala on Walter's boda at night

Returning to Uganda this year it was fantastic to see how his business has taken off! Walter now has ten boda guys who work for him and they run a range of tours around the city and beyond to Jinja, Entebbe  or even as far as the equator

I’ve been lucky enough to take a few tours with Walter so far. The city tour is my favourite and takes in the sights such as the Gadaffi Mosque, built in 2006 it’s the second largest mosque in Africa. The views from the top are breathtaking, overlooking the whole city and all the hills with Lake Victoria as the backdrop.

View from the Gaddafi Mosque

From the mosque you can see most of the landmarks the tour takes you to such as the Kings Palace, churches and the Baha’i Temple (although as I lived a few minutes’ walk from this we omitted it from my tour..)

Driving to the Gaddafi Mosque

The tours were a great thing to do when friends came to visit – it make sightseeing much easier and Walter as a guide always puts a smile on everyone’s face.

The King's Palace

Rolex for breakfast

Seeing how fantastically his business has taken off over the past year I was keen to do another tour on my return this time. He runs a great tour of the lake..

Unfortunately due to other commitments on my part I wasn’t able to do the full tour but Walter still made sure I saw as much as possible in the limited time.

We had breakfast at his favourite rolex stand. Rolex is a traditional Uganda/Kampala food of eggs with tomato wrapped in a chapatti – I can’t believe I hadn’t had one until now. It was delicious!

Walter at Lake Victoria 

After helping me with a few errands we drove out to the lake past Munyonyo. It was wonderful to see everyone going about their day to day lives, cleaning vehicles, running businesses and fishing for Nile perch and tilapia.

What a feast we had of a huge fresh tilapia barbecued and served with a large helping of chips and salad.

Finishing lunch just as a big storm hit the lake we raced back to town avoiding as much of the rain as possible and getting me back in plenty of time for my flight home.

Lunch of freshly caught tilapia

Next time I visit I’ll make sure I take the full Lake Tour as I would have loved to sail the boat over to the island and explore further.

For anyone heading to Uganda I’d recommend a day or two in Kampala and give Walter a call on +256791880106 to arrange your tour or visit his website.

Team UNICEF Climb Mount Kilimanjaro

Team UNICEF ready to go...

I’ve just climbed Mount Kilimanjaro with a fantastic group of UNICEF Fundraisers! We are all exhausted but incredibly proud of challenging ourselves for children. 

And what a challenge it was; from the heat of the African sunshine to sub-zero temperatures the team conquered the mountain and have raised over £100,000 to support children throughout the world.

We made it to the Roof of Africa!

The past eight days have been some of the most challenging of my life, but definitely some of the most rewarding. Climbing 5,895 meters is an extreme challenge but the wonderful Team UNICEF took each day their stride in preparation for the summit. United by raising money for children we worked together to fulfil lifelong dreams of standing on the Roof of Africa. 

There were times when we didn’t think it would be possible as we meandered around the mountain, each day climbing higher to acclimatise ourselves to the altitude. Using every ounce of physical and mental strength the majority of the group made it to the top. For some the effects of the altitude were too severe to summit but everyone who attempted is a hero for the children we're supporting.

Summit of Kilimanjaro

We were lucky enough to meet some of the children UNICEF supports in Tanzania and see examples of how the funds raised can support children throughout the world.

Tippy taps at Olmorog Vety Primary School

At Olmorog Vety Primary School we saw how, with UNICEF’s support, the children now have access to clean water, hand washing facilities and decent toilets. Such a simple everyday activity like hand washing is taken for granted in the UK but 92 per cent of schools in Tanzania lack functional hand washing facilities. Ahimidiwe, pictured right, proudly showed off their new and simple tippy taps. These, combined with hygiene education, can be directly responsible for saving the lives of children who otherwise could die from such an easily preventable disease as diarrhoea.

The trekkers also enjoyed playing games with the children such as football, the sack race and the lesser known; ‘catch the chicken’ game – which was lots of fun!

UNICEF Tanzania has recently piloted a project to give young people a voice. We visited The Young ReportersNetwork where children from the Moshi region have the opportunity to learn and practice journalist skills, giving them the confidence to discuss difficult issues such as HIV and AIDS, teen pregnancy and disabilities. We were all incredibly impressed with the children’s knowledge and confidence as they interviewed some of the team for their next radio programme.

Joining in the fun at Olmorog Vety Primary School

Visiting these projects assisted in the team’s motivation to climb the mountain and to continue fundraising for the world’s children on their return home.

Thank you to everyone involved and to everyone who has supported us to fulfil our dreams and transform children’s lives.