Transport in Bagan: Bikes, Taxis, Boats & Horses

A short plane journey from Yangon lays Bagan. Described as Burmese First Empire there are over 3,300 temples and pagodas here.

Our first choice of transport for sightseeing was push bikes.  Easily hired from most guest houses we lowered the seats (even in Asia our group of mostly 5ft 1 seemed short..!) and set off with our baskets full of water, sun cream and cameras.

With little traffic around we bezzed down the hills but in the midst of the ‘Dry Zone’ at over 35 degrees the uphill was a struggle... Veering off onto the dirt tracks on our ‘Temple Safari’ it felt as though we could be in Africa with acacia trees growing out of the dusty roads with dry heat seeping from them.

Cycling along the sand caused much amusement – not only to the locals watching the white girls becoming pinker and redder the hotter we got. Also for us as the back wheels skidded away. Somehow we all managed to stay upright, even after Lizz’s bike got a puncture.

For the full day of sightseeing we opted for an air-conditioned taxi. The six seated Toyota made for a more comfortable journey. Tourists have only recently been welcomed into the country after the tourism boycott was officially dropped by the NLD (National League for Democracy) in 2010. Unlike other wonders such as Angkor Wat there isn’t as much hassle from vendors or beggars at the main attractions here. The smaller temples usually have a gate keeper to unlock them. We didn’t quite work out if tipping was appropriate/accepted. Some gate keepers would accept, others ask, others refuse but the ones we felt most comfortable with were the ones who asked us to put our 1-500 Kyat (10-50p) in the donations boxes for restoration work.

This is why we were so shocked at one temple when a young boy dressed in a monks robe directly asked us for money as a “present” for him. On reflection we aren't sure if he was a monk as he also helped us down the narrow staircase by holding our hands (against our wishes.) Buddhist Monks are allowed no contact with women, not even to brush passed them in the street, so perhaps he wasn't a monk after all...

The journey to this and the nearby temples was idyllic though. We hired a boat from Nyaung U Jetty for a three hour cruise along the Ayeyarwady River. The breeze on the shaded boat was a welcome retreat from the scorching sun.

Another popular method of transport amongst travellers is the horse and cart. We made the wise decision to leave this until the heat had relented in the evening. It was so much fun clip-clopping through the streets at night with the flashing lights of the cart gleaming in the night sky. I’m glad it was only a half hour journey though as squeezing into the cart was a little uncomfortable.

The only form of transport we were unable to use was the renowned hot air balloon. Unfortunately the rides are only available between October to March but I’m sure it would have been a stunning way to appreciate the vastness of the ancient city. Ah well, next time...