A day on Milford Sounds

Milford Sounds

Waking up early on a crisp morning in New Zealand we set out in our little campervan for Milford Sounds.

Mirror Lake

The drive was beautiful, firstly stopping at Mirror Lakes which, as the guide book had promised, has a perfect reflection of the magnificent mountains behind. The quirky sign made me smile with the reflection spelling out the name of the lake.

Further south we passed fields of lupins with their purple and pinks creating an oil painting effect against the landscape and their  sweet smell filling the car with the scent of spring.

We’d rearranged our plans to reach Milford sooner because we were warned of heavy rainfall which may close the road leading in and out of the tiny town.  As we drove past the incredible glacial mountains and through the avalanche zone we quickly realised why it would be unsafe to drive in bad weather.

Luckily we were graced with sunshine and as we drove through the Homer Tunnel, carved through the mountain, the chill in the air dispersed like the wispy clouds.

Driving to Milford through the clouds

Pre-booked onto the 11:10 Mitre Peak cruise we eagerly strode to the front of the queue to get a good seat on top-deck.

Tour boat on Milford Sounds

Milford Sounds is sighted at the most impressive in Fiordland. The deep blue water contrasting with the looming cliffs above was an awesome sight. We passed incredible fresh waterfalls; one at 162 meters is much higher than Niagara Falls (but not as wide of course!) 

There was an icy chill in the air as the boat meandered through the Sounds, passing the fishing areas where crayfish is caught and within 48 hours on sale in China.

Sailing further towards the Tasman Sea we turned at St Annes Point. Heading back through the sheer cliffs, the 75 birth boat felt like a tiny speck.

Seal colony

We passed a seal colony, watching the young male seals basking in the sunshine was a perfect end to the journey.  

With some energy left as we drove back we put on our walking boots and hiked to Key Summit. A beautiful three hour walk through a mixture of vegetation including the native New Zealand forest, alpine tracks and a nature walk at the top explaining the history of the land.

The breath-taking views of the Hollyford, Greenstone and Eglington Valleys in the late afternoon sun was my favourite part of the day.

Key summit trek

It is a long way to go for a two hour cruise but the views and stops en-route made it worthwhile. If I were to go again I think I’d do one of the overnight cruises and if my budget allowed I’d take a helicopter flight too... 

Walking on ice

Fox Glacier

We woke to a beautifully clear blue sky and warm sunshine. Packing up the campervan quickly we hit the road for our ice walking tour with Fox Glacier Guiding.

Getting kitted out

Fox Glacier spans 13km in the West of the South Island of New Zealand. Booked onto the half day guided tour we approached with different levels of excitement and trepidation.

Time for a delicious, filling breakfast in the Hobnail café before we were fitted for our equipment.I was the only one in the group who had my own walking boots but there were all sizes available for everyone else to borrow. Socks, bags and waterproofs were also lent before we set out on the short drive to the glacier.

There was a sudden dip in the road as we moved over to the pacific plate – the shift was distinctly noticeable, like dipping down on a rollercoster.

Eager to get onto the ice we chose the ‘English Charm’ of guide, Joe, as the group split in to two to traverse the route separately. 

Following our guide on the ice

Trekking past the icy streams Joe explained that the milky appearance is created by the rocks rubbing together forming a grey dust in the fresh water.

The surrounding vegetation was beautiful with a big pool reflecting bright blues and greens and waterfalls trickling down into the steam beneath.

The looming cliffs towered above as us as we navigated our way to the glacier terminus. Now to secure our crampons and it was time to walk on the ice.

The guides spend around  four hours every morning cutting paths and steps into the ice. Until recently the tours only walked on the cut paths but now the route includes walking on the untouched ice which was surprisingly stable and easy enough to walk on. Having said that every guide still carries a pick axe to hack at any areas that needing re-paving to help all levels of trekkers.

Colourful pools

The sunshine beamed down on us making the ice glisten even more brightly blue and white than it seemed from the base.

Meandering through the paths and ridges we learned about the history of the glacier and how it had grown and shrunk and how it and the Franz Josef Glaciers move ten times faster than any other valley glaciers in the world.

Ooops I wasn't meant to step in there

We had the chance to get close to the crevices. Being a little too excited I didn’t hear Joe shout “don’t go all the way in” as I trudged down the steps and stepped straight into the icy water gathered at the bottom.  It was still beautiful though and wearing my trusty boots that took me all the way up Kilimanjaro I didn’t even get soggy feet!

When we booked the half day tour I wondered if just one hour on the ice would be enough, it turns out that we spent a little longer than that which was plenty of time and at $115 within our budget.

The previous day we’d done a free walk up to Franz Josef glacier, 35kms north of Fox. It was beautiful but nothing compared to actually walking on the ice and being so close to the magnificent beauty. I’d recommend anyone visiting this part of New Zealand to take a trip on Fox Glacier. 

New York: Top Picks

View from Top of The Rock

Two days in New York is not much time but with a busy schedule, a pair of comfy boots and a warm coat I managed to tick everything off my list and even managed to see a couple of things by day and by night. It’s hard to choose but my top two picks for a visit to New York are:

Top of the Rock

For $25 I took the elevator up 67 floors to the observation deck of the Rockefeller Centre. If you’re afraid of heights don’t look up in the lift, but then again if you’re afraid of heights this probably isn’t the pick for you. The glass walled observation deck gave beautiful views of the city but climbing a couple more flights of stairs to the 70^th floor and I was quite literally at the Top of the Rock.

It was one of those beautifully crisp and sunny winter mornings and as I looked out over New York I was completely overwhelmed. Skyscrapers were bursting out of the gridded streets, Central Park cut neatly into the landscape and the Statue of Liberty stood tall in the distance.

Panoramic view from Top of The Rock

Not only does this give the most fantastic views but was a great first stop to orientate myself with the city. Not known for my sense of direction I was pleasantly surprised at just how easy it was to navigate the city and having seen it from above initially really helped in not getting lost!

I wasn’t sure of my evening plans so opted for just a day ticket but next time I visit I’ll pay the extra $13 to get the night time pass so I can see the ‘city that never sleeps’ by night too.

The High Line

The Husdon River from The Highline

The Highline stretches from Gansevoort Street in the Meatpacking District  to West 34th Street, between 10^th/11^th 30ft above the city. 

Its original purpose was the railway line from the meat packing district but had been unused since the 1960’s. The NYC Park Authority opened it as a walk way in 2009 with plants growing, art sculptures and even wooden sun loungers a long route.

It’s a stunning walk with the Hudson River to the West and the City on the East giving a unique perspective of the city. I loved just looking over the viewing platforms and watching the world go by, oblivious to the spectators above.

View from The Highline

I walked up heading North but if I did it again I’d probably walk the other way – ending up in Chelsea to warm up with a coffee and take a stroll through to Perry Street (the SATC fans will want to stop off here..)

For more sightseeing tips and a comparison of New York and London check out my other New York blog.

New York vs. London

Central Park & Hyde Park, subways & tubes,  The Rockefeller Christmas Tree & Winter Wonderland, The Empire State building &... and what’s London’s comparison? The Shard perhaps…?!

For the past two days as I wandered the streets of New York completely awe inspired I couldn’t help but compare it to London. This blog is by no means objective, having lived in London for six years and visited New York for just two days but even in that short (and rather cold!) visit I discovered so many reasons to love The Big Apple as much as The Big Smoke.

Transport

Yellow taxis outside New York's Grand Central Station

For everyone’s complaining Transport for London isn’t too bad, the underground is easy enough and the buses take you where you need to go. I had no idea how I was going to navigate the NYC subway system but luckily the friend I was staying with gave me step by step directions. Having downloaded the NYC subway app to my iPhone (I have the London underground app on there too of course) I counted down the stations on route.

Even travelling into the centre of Manhattan at peak commuter time I was nicely surprised at how calm everything was – a far cry from watching trains roll past unable to squeeze on to one with all the London commuters. The trains and stations seemed much older and more rickety though, surprising as they were built forty years after London’s underground opened.

Morning commute in London at Waterloo Station

In general I was struck by the quietness of New York, from the films and TV shows I had imagined a loud, noisy, congested city with the iconic yellow taxis beeping, traffic jams, basically just a lot of mayhem, but the roads are so much calmer than London's with our black cabs and red buses rushing from A to B.

Taking the bus through Brooklyn at 8:30am however ensured that I didn’t go away with a completely rose tinted view of the NYC Transport system. Here the all too familiar scene of cramming a few too many people into a small space reminded me of my morning commute in London catching the big red bus from Waterloo, hoping to be at the front of the well ordered queue to ensure a seat but more often than not running to jump on just before it pulls away. 

As we meandered through Down Town Brooklyn and the crowds dispersed the bus driver was so friendly, chatting away; eager to give me tips for my sightseeing.I don’t think I ever spoke to the bus driver of the 243 that I took every day to work for the past 2 years.

Cupcakes

Magnolia Bakery in New York

Being a big fan of both cupcakes and of Sex and the City, I couldn’t come to New York without a visit to Magnolia Bakery (Carrie and the girls’ favourite in the show.) The branch on the corner of 49^th and 6^th was a welcome treat after the awesome views from Top of the Rock. The quaint set-up and relaxed atmosphere drew me in as I ordered my red velvet cupcake.

Now don’t get me wrong, it was good but London’s Hummingbird Bakery with its trendy demeanour and delicious choices of cake does make a better red velvet, I think it’s all down to the cream cheese icing...

Park Life

Sunset on London's Clapham Common

I love London’s parks; wandering past the deer in Richmond Park, admiring the views from Primrose Hill, walking though Clapham Common on a crisp Autumnal day, picnicing in Green Park on my birthday, the list goes on…

The only park I had time to visit in New York was Central Park. 

My first glimpse of it was from the Top of the Rockefeller as I saw New York stretched out ahead of me and the very straight rectangular green space etched in to the heart of the city. 

Arial view of New York's Central Park

A very different view to that of Hyde Park, which can be seen beautifully from Galvin at Windows restaurant at the top of The Hilton on Park Lane, with its more fluid shape, leading to other Royal Parks. 

Hyde Park has The Serpentine, Central Park The Lake. Both have the beauty of the nature surrounded by the hustle of the big city. In Hyde Park it’s easy to forget you’re in the middle of the capital city; at its heart not many buildings can be seen and the buzz of the traffic is reduced to a gentle dim. In Central Park with the skyscrapers rising above the trees, which were quickly losing their leaves for winter, there is no escaping the fact you’re in the middle of a huge metropolitan city; but would you want to..?

Christmas

Winter Wonderland in London

Leaving London in November I missed one of my favourite festive activities; Winter Wonderland. Hyde Park is transformed into, quite literally, a winter wonderland for six weeks every year. There’s fairground rides, German market stores, mulled wine, ice skating and my favourite; a mini London Eye giving a great view of the city from the warm little capsules. To me Christmas isn’t Christmas without wandering around Wonderland with a cup of mulled wine on a crisp winter’s evening. 

New York's famous Christmas tree and ice-skating rink

To New Yorkers Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without the 80ft Christmas Tree at the Rockefeller Centre.

I visited the Rockefeller on my first day in New York and was a little disappointed to find the tree not quite ready and the ice rink not quite open. Luckily it was that very night that the lights were being switched on so the next day after a long day of sightseeing I headed back to the centre of town to see for myself the world-famous tree. In order to get the true experience I had a coffee (no mulled wine to be seen…) while I waited for it to get dark and wow am I pleased I did. The 45,000 lights were truly incredible and the whole scene reminded me of so many movies. A truly different scale to Winter Wonderland, but both absolutely wonderful in getting everyone into the festive spirit.

For more info on New York read my Top Picks blog.

My next challenge...

Trekking in Namibia

Last year I trekked through the Namib Desert, this year I climbed the highest free standing mountain in the world, what could be my challenge for 2013...?

I’m going to live in a jungle for three months with no wifi, no showers, no toilets, no drinking, no salt & vinegar crisps, the list goes on and on...I’ve been accepted as a Project Manager for a Raleigh International expedition in Borneo.

Having worked in the international development sector for over five years I am incredibly picky about which charities I will support. I chose Raleigh as I believe they make a lasting difference in the countries they work in. They work with local partners on sustainable projects such as securing clean water supplies for villages that had none or building kindergartens and providing teacher training so children have an access to early education. I don’t know the specific project I’ll be working on yet but I’m really looking forward to getting out to ‘the field’ and implementing some of the live saving and changing projects I’ve fundraised for over the years.

Raleigh volunteers in Borneo

Raleigh works with volunteers aged 17 to 24 to develop key life skills and confidence while making a difference to the world. Some of the volunteers will be from Borneo and some from disadvantaged backgrounds in the UK who are on a bursary programme, others will be taking a gap year before or after university. Supporting the development of the young people taking part in the project will be my main responsibility in Borneo.

The main challenge I face before I leave is fundraising. Even in a management position I have to raise £1,950 to take part in the expedition. This is in addition to paying for my own flights, vaccines, equipment, first aid training and all of the other costs associated with moving to Borneo for three months.

Cake bake!

I have been overwhelmed at people’s generosity, kindness and support. Donations to my online fundraising page have come from far and wide including very generous donations from my cousins in Canada who I haven’t seen in 20 years (has it really been that long...?!) Thank you to everyone who has donated. I’ve fundraised for VSO and UNICEF recently so I’m really touched my wonderful friends, family and colleagues are still willing to put their hands in their pocket and donate to yet another good cause.

Cake bakes are one of my favourite fundraising mechanisms and with 110 free cupcakes from Hummingbird Bakery and baking support from some of my lovely colleagues I raised £169 selling delicious goodies in the office.

More office fundraising and a jumble sale last week has raised over £200 with a few IOUs still to come.

Auction flyer

As well as the generosity of friends I have also been really grateful for the support of a couple of caring businesses. Handpicked Hotels have donated a nights bed and breakfast with an evening meal and wine for two at one of their beautiful country hotels. The Knightsbridge branch of Venture Photography  has donated a family photography shoot with £400 to spend on the images. I’m auctioning these fantastic prizes to help me reach my target. There’s still time to bid – all you need to do is email me (alyrenerosser@hotmail.com) with your bid by 7pm on 16^th November. (If you are outbid before then I’ll email you straight away to let you know.)

If anyone would like to make a donation directly then please visit my fundraising page

Thank you so much to everyone who has supported me in my next challenge.

Walter’s Boda Tours of Kampala

Walter

The best way to see Kampala is by motorbike, or Boda Boda as they are called in Kampala. I was lucky enough to have a brilliant boda driver when I lived here; Walter.

Walter was always on call to ferry the muzungos from place to place and over the six months I spent living in Kampala while on a VSO  placement he became a good friend.

As well as working as a boda he also established Walter’sBoda Boda Tours; using his enthusiasm, intelligence and knowledge of the country to drive and guide tourists around the city.

Kampala on Walter's boda at night

Returning to Uganda this year it was fantastic to see how his business has taken off! Walter now has ten boda guys who work for him and they run a range of tours around the city and beyond to Jinja, Entebbe  or even as far as the equator

I’ve been lucky enough to take a few tours with Walter so far. The city tour is my favourite and takes in the sights such as the Gadaffi Mosque, built in 2006 it’s the second largest mosque in Africa. The views from the top are breathtaking, overlooking the whole city and all the hills with Lake Victoria as the backdrop.

View from the Gaddafi Mosque

From the mosque you can see most of the landmarks the tour takes you to such as the Kings Palace, churches and the Baha’i Temple (although as I lived a few minutes’ walk from this we omitted it from my tour..)

Driving to the Gaddafi Mosque

The tours were a great thing to do when friends came to visit – it make sightseeing much easier and Walter as a guide always puts a smile on everyone’s face.

The King's Palace

Rolex for breakfast

Seeing how fantastically his business has taken off over the past year I was keen to do another tour on my return this time. He runs a great tour of the lake..

Unfortunately due to other commitments on my part I wasn’t able to do the full tour but Walter still made sure I saw as much as possible in the limited time.

We had breakfast at his favourite rolex stand. Rolex is a traditional Uganda/Kampala food of eggs with tomato wrapped in a chapatti – I can’t believe I hadn’t had one until now. It was delicious!

Walter at Lake Victoria 

After helping me with a few errands we drove out to the lake past Munyonyo. It was wonderful to see everyone going about their day to day lives, cleaning vehicles, running businesses and fishing for Nile perch and tilapia.

What a feast we had of a huge fresh tilapia barbecued and served with a large helping of chips and salad.

Finishing lunch just as a big storm hit the lake we raced back to town avoiding as much of the rain as possible and getting me back in plenty of time for my flight home.

Lunch of freshly caught tilapia

Next time I visit I’ll make sure I take the full Lake Tour as I would have loved to sail the boat over to the island and explore further.

For anyone heading to Uganda I’d recommend a day or two in Kampala and give Walter a call on +256791880106 to arrange your tour or visit his website.

School for Life

Greeted with big smiles at Katuuso Primary School

Arriving at the School for Life school at play time was perfect timing. We were greeted with big smiles from the children and joined in their games of catch and skipping and watched them play the African game of choice, rolling tyres up and down.

One of the 80 children benefiting from School for Life

School for Life is an incredible grass roots organisation set up by a good friend, Dave, and his business partner, Annabelle.

Visiting Katuuso Primary School to see firsthand the impact they are having on the lives of children and the local community was an incredible experience.

Opened in 2011 the school began with one class. The children attending are entitled to their schooling here for free although a 20,000 Shilling (about £5) donation is asked for as a gesture of their commitment and to assist with the running costs of the school. The children here receive outstanding education with the primary class of 40 children having two teachers dedicated to them (class sizes in Uganda are often 70+)

Getting a great education

The class rooms themselves are wonderful and bright; great learning environments for the children and a stark contrast to other African schools I have visited.

Both staff and children are full of smiles as the bell rings and they line up ready to go back to class after playtime.

Currently in the middle of expanding, construction is underway on new class rooms and a library. Every detail of the project is thoroughly thought through; the bricks are all handmade on site which is not only cheaper but also much better for the environment. The construction workers are employed from the local area to give income back into the rural community.

Queuing to go back to class

The borehole, one of the first things implemented at the school, is also for the use of the whole community. Providing safe drinking water for the children and their families.

Dave shows us the borehole 

As if this wasn’t enough Dave also showed us the new agricultural plots. Crops of maize, beans, cabbages, etc are peaking our through the red dirt – all planted to assist with the school feeding programme. The children receive breakfast, morning tea and lunch so growing the crops at the school is ideal to provide the food. Cash crops of chillies are growing well and coffee will soon be grown and sold as a further income stream.

Dave showing us the new crops

Great learning environment for the children

I’m so impressed with everything School for Life is doing to support the children in Katuuso Primary and am looking forward to hearing about their expansion plans.

School for Life is an Australian registered charity and relies on donations  to implement its amazing work. Lots of luck to them in their fundraising and in everything they are doing for children in Uganda.

Team UNICEF Climb Mount Kilimanjaro

Team UNICEF ready to go...

I’ve just climbed Mount Kilimanjaro with a fantastic group of UNICEF Fundraisers! We are all exhausted but incredibly proud of challenging ourselves for children. 

And what a challenge it was; from the heat of the African sunshine to sub-zero temperatures the team conquered the mountain and have raised over £100,000 to support children throughout the world.

We made it to the Roof of Africa!

The past eight days have been some of the most challenging of my life, but definitely some of the most rewarding. Climbing 5,895 meters is an extreme challenge but the wonderful Team UNICEF took each day their stride in preparation for the summit. United by raising money for children we worked together to fulfil lifelong dreams of standing on the Roof of Africa. 

There were times when we didn’t think it would be possible as we meandered around the mountain, each day climbing higher to acclimatise ourselves to the altitude. Using every ounce of physical and mental strength the majority of the group made it to the top. For some the effects of the altitude were too severe to summit but everyone who attempted is a hero for the children we're supporting.

Summit of Kilimanjaro

We were lucky enough to meet some of the children UNICEF supports in Tanzania and see examples of how the funds raised can support children throughout the world.

Tippy taps at Olmorog Vety Primary School

At Olmorog Vety Primary School we saw how, with UNICEF’s support, the children now have access to clean water, hand washing facilities and decent toilets. Such a simple everyday activity like hand washing is taken for granted in the UK but 92 per cent of schools in Tanzania lack functional hand washing facilities. Ahimidiwe, pictured right, proudly showed off their new and simple tippy taps. These, combined with hygiene education, can be directly responsible for saving the lives of children who otherwise could die from such an easily preventable disease as diarrhoea.

The trekkers also enjoyed playing games with the children such as football, the sack race and the lesser known; ‘catch the chicken’ game – which was lots of fun!

UNICEF Tanzania has recently piloted a project to give young people a voice. We visited The Young ReportersNetwork where children from the Moshi region have the opportunity to learn and practice journalist skills, giving them the confidence to discuss difficult issues such as HIV and AIDS, teen pregnancy and disabilities. We were all incredibly impressed with the children’s knowledge and confidence as they interviewed some of the team for their next radio programme.

Joining in the fun at Olmorog Vety Primary School

Visiting these projects assisted in the team’s motivation to climb the mountain and to continue fundraising for the world’s children on their return home.

Thank you to everyone involved and to everyone who has supported us to fulfil our dreams and transform children’s lives.